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Histology

Understanding the importance of
skincare is not about the basics
of "good cosmetics", but about
health and wellness of both our
external as well as internal
being. It is about fighting off
free radical invasion and
warding off the signs of again
to stay younger looking longer.
therefore it is important to
understand how the skin works
and why proper external
nourishment is essential to
taking care of your skin.
Facts about the skin:
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Our
body's largest vital organ
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Is
permeable, absorbs and
excretes.
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Is
made up of 65-70% water in the
lower levels of the skin,
gradually decreasing toward
the surface of the skin.
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Acts
as a barrier for our internal
organs, and protects against
harmful environmental
elements.
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Helps
metabolize and regulate heat.
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Helps
excrete toxins and other
wastes from within through
pores and sweat glands.
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With
aging, skin loses its
elasticity, vitality,
smoothness, firmness and
suppleness.
Layers of the skin
There are three primary
layers of the skin. They are the
epidermis (outermost layer),
dermis (internal), and the
subcutaneous (innermost layer).
Within these layers of the skin
are many activities.
The Epidermis (outer layer)
The outermost surface of the
epidermis is a dead horny layer
of keratin, which helps protect
from the environment. Directly
underneath is the stratum
corneum. This layer of the
epidermis helps prevent water
loss and also helps protect from
the harmful environment
elements. This barrier helps to
protect the deeper layers of the
dermis, epidermis, and
subcutaneous layers directly
underneath.
The
epidermis is the layer that is
often called the "bricks and
mortar" of the skin, and where
there are multiple layers of
cerimides, cholestrol and free
fatty acids and melanin (skin
pigmentation). All providing a
barrier function. It is in this
layer that epidermal cells die,
and where there is secretion of
"keratin" (protein), and "sebum"
(oil) which accumulate in these
dead cells.
The
most important function in the
epidermis cells is the
manufacturing of lipids
(moisture), fibrous proteins and
fatty acids. With the aging
process, poor diet, lack of
exercise and harmful
environmental debris, our
epidermis is under constant
attack.
The Dermis (center layer)

The
function of the dermis is to be
able to firmly stay attached to
the epidermis, and to serve as
the body's regulator. it
primarily consists of connective
tissues - collagen and elastin.
as well, the dermis is where you
have blood vessels, nerves
(heat/cold), lymphatics, hair
follicles, sebaceous glands,
apocrine and eccrine glands that
make up the structure of the
skin.
The Subcutaneous (innermost
layer)
The
subcutaneous layer of the skin
is the base foundation of the
skin. It is in this innermost
layer of the skin that you have
adipose (fatty cells), arteries,
veins, base of the sweat glands
and sympathetic nerves (pain).
All of our skin tissue is fed
from the subcutaneous layer that
often diminishes with age,
causing the skin to sag.
Ceramides 3
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Application
phase: 14 days, twice
daily.
Time of evaluation: Before
and 60 minutes after
treatment on the skin with
SDS (5%, during 2 hours
under occlusion) and 1
hour after last
application on days 3, 7
and 14. |
Ceramides
make up approximately 40% to 65%
of the total lipids of the
stratum corneum (second layer of
the epidermis). There are six
ceramide families in the human
epidermis, each serving a
different purpose. they are
recognized as important
regulators of cell-proliferation
and differentiation. Ceramides
are highly insoluble, and are
ideal building blocks for the
lipid layer. The lipid barrier
is the skin's first line of
defense for aging. Ceramide 3 is
a NEW human-identical skin lipid
that:
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Improves
healthy human skin
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Reduces
depth of wrinkles by
approximately 30%
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Retains
longer lasting water retaining
capacity
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Decreases
skin roughness
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Helps
correct structure
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Maintains
constant quality
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Improves
the barrier function
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Restores
detergent-damaged human skin
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Protects
healthy human skin against
detergent-induced dermatitis
Telomeres

Before a cell divides, it
copies its chromosomes to give
each new cell a complete set. In
most cells, however, this
process does not include the
long spirals of DNA called
Telomeres, which protect the
ends of every chromosome.
Telomeres get shorter with each
cell division. Finally, some
scientists believe. they are so
short the cell can no longer
divide, and it becomes
vulnerable to damage and decay.
Antioxidants
and DNA
Cosmetic chemists and research
dermatologists have understood
for the past few years the
workings of human skin and have
identified ingredients that
really do deliver results where
mere promises once dwelled.
Clinical and laboratory studies
conducted by institutes such as
Harvard Medical School and the
University of California at
Berkley (U.C. Berkley), show
antioxidants rubbed onto the
skin actually make a visible
difference in the appearance of
age spots, sensitivity,
irritation and protection from
all forms of environmental
threat. Traditional antioxidants
over the past few years are
known as vitamins A, C, D, E and
Green Tea Extract. Recently,
research has identified
intelligent antioxidants that
are able to absorb into the
skin, single out, balance and
restore free radicals into a
healthy state. These new
intelligent antioxidants include
Chenopodium Quinoa and Licorice
Extract.
DNA Repair

A cell's
chromosomes are the 46 coils of
DNA in its nucleus. They hold
all the information about the
cell in the sequence of their
paired nucleotides. Crytosine
always paired with guanine, and
adenine with thymine. Radiation
and molecules called free
radicals can damage the double
helix of DNA. Repairable damage
knocks out one nucleotide, which
the DNA can restore by using the
complementary nucleotide at
random, often causing a
mutation. Accumulated mutations
can affect critical functions.
DNA moisturizes, has healing
properties, binds a large amount
of water and promotes the repair
of skin micro-injuries at the
same time as moisturizing it.
DNA is particularly adapted to
products for the treatment of
skin aging.
AHA's - Alpha
Hydroxy Acids

AHA's are widely known
for "anti-aging" benefits. AHA's
and in particular Glycolic Acid
is used for gently removing or
exfoliating dead skin cells,
helping in cellular
regeneration, skin hydration,
and evening out the pigmentation
of the skin. For AHA's to
produce their maximum
"anti-aging" efficacy, the "free
acid" form of the AHA molecule
must be greater than 4% before
epidermal "cell renewal" is
substantially stimulated. The
AHA concentration and the
product pH determines free acid.
Standard pH of the skin tissue
is 4.5 to 5.5. Free acid is
harmful if delivered below 2.5%
and not as effective if
delivered above 4%. It is
important to understand when
more than 8% Glycolic Acid is
used in a formulation,
irritation may occur. In
professional mini-peel services,
it is essential to use a
"buffered" peel for safety and
efficacy.
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