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Histology

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   Understanding the importance of skincare is not about the basics of "good cosmetics", but about health and wellness of both our external as well as internal being. It is about fighting off free radical invasion and warding off the signs of again to stay younger looking longer. therefore it is important to understand how the skin works and why proper external nourishment is essential to taking care of your skin.

Facts about the skin:

  • Our body's largest vital organ

  • Is permeable, absorbs and excretes.

  • Is made up of 65-70% water in the lower levels of the skin, gradually decreasing toward the surface of the skin.

  • Acts as a barrier for our internal organs, and protects against harmful environmental elements.

  • Helps metabolize and regulate heat.

  • Helps excrete toxins and other wastes from within through pores and sweat glands.

  • With aging, skin loses its elasticity, vitality, smoothness, firmness and suppleness.

Layers of the skin

    There are three primary layers of the skin. They are the epidermis (outermost layer), dermis (internal), and the subcutaneous (innermost layer). Within these layers of the skin are many activities.

The Epidermis (outer layer)
    The outermost surface of the epidermis is a dead horny layer of keratin, which helps protect from the environment. Directly underneath is the stratum corneum. This layer of the epidermis helps prevent water loss and also helps protect from the harmful environment elements. This barrier helps to protect the deeper layers of the dermis, epidermis, and subcutaneous layers directly underneath.

    The epidermis is the layer that is often called the "bricks and mortar" of the skin, and where there are multiple layers of cerimides, cholestrol and free fatty acids and melanin (skin pigmentation). All providing a barrier function. It is in this layer that epidermal cells die, and where there is secretion of "keratin" (protein), and "sebum" (oil) which accumulate in these dead cells.

    The most important function in the epidermis cells is the manufacturing of lipids (moisture), fibrous proteins and fatty acids. With the aging process, poor diet, lack of exercise and harmful environmental debris, our epidermis is under constant attack.

The Dermis (center layer)

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    The function of the dermis is to be able to firmly stay attached to the epidermis, and to serve as the body's regulator. it primarily consists of connective tissues - collagen and elastin. as well, the dermis is where you have blood vessels, nerves (heat/cold), lymphatics, hair follicles, sebaceous glands, apocrine and eccrine glands that make up the structure of the skin.

The Subcutaneous (innermost layer)
   
The subcutaneous layer of the skin is the base foundation of the skin. It is in this innermost layer of the skin that you have adipose (fatty cells), arteries, veins, base of the sweat glands and sympathetic nerves (pain). All of our skin tissue is fed from the subcutaneous layer that often diminishes with age, causing the skin to sag.

Ceramides 3

Application phase: 14 days, twice daily.
Time of evaluation: Before and 60 minutes after treatment on the skin with SDS (5%, during 2 hours under occlusion) and 1 hour after last application on days 3, 7 and 14.

    Ceramides make up approximately 40% to 65% of the total lipids of the stratum corneum (second layer of the epidermis). There are six ceramide families in the human epidermis, each serving a different purpose. they are recognized as important regulators of cell-proliferation and differentiation. Ceramides are highly insoluble, and are ideal building blocks for the lipid layer. The lipid barrier is the skin's first line of defense for aging. Ceramide 3 is a NEW human-identical skin lipid that:

  • Improves healthy human skin

  • Reduces depth of wrinkles by approximately 30%

  • Retains longer lasting water retaining capacity

  • Decreases skin roughness

  • Helps correct structure

  • Maintains constant quality

  • Improves the barrier function

  • Restores detergent-damaged human skin

  • Protects healthy human skin against detergent-induced dermatitis

Telomeres

 

    Before a cell divides, it copies its chromosomes to give each new cell a complete set. In most cells, however, this process does not include the long spirals of DNA called Telomeres, which protect the ends of every chromosome. Telomeres get shorter with each cell division. Finally, some scientists believe. they are so short the cell can no longer divide, and it becomes vulnerable to damage and decay.

Antioxidants and DNA

    Cosmetic chemists and research dermatologists have understood for the past few years the workings of human skin and have identified ingredients that really do deliver results where mere promises once dwelled. Clinical and laboratory studies conducted by institutes such as Harvard Medical School and the University of California at Berkley (U.C. Berkley), show antioxidants rubbed onto the skin actually make a visible difference in the appearance of age spots, sensitivity, irritation and protection from all forms of environmental threat. Traditional antioxidants over the past few years are known as vitamins A, C, D, E and Green Tea Extract. Recently, research has identified intelligent antioxidants that are able to absorb into the skin, single out, balance and restore free radicals into a healthy state. These new intelligent antioxidants include Chenopodium Quinoa and Licorice Extract.

DNA Repair

    A cell's chromosomes are the 46 coils of DNA in its nucleus. They hold all the information about the cell in the sequence of their paired nucleotides. Crytosine always paired with guanine, and adenine with thymine. Radiation and molecules called free radicals can damage the double helix of DNA. Repairable damage knocks out one nucleotide, which the DNA can restore by using the complementary nucleotide at random, often causing a mutation. Accumulated mutations can affect critical functions. DNA moisturizes, has healing properties, binds a large amount of water and promotes the repair of skin micro-injuries at the same time as moisturizing it. DNA is particularly adapted to products for the treatment of skin aging.

AHA's - Alpha Hydroxy Acids

    AHA's are widely known for "anti-aging" benefits. AHA's and in particular Glycolic Acid is used for gently removing or exfoliating dead skin cells, helping in cellular regeneration, skin hydration, and evening out the pigmentation of the skin. For AHA's to produce their maximum "anti-aging" efficacy, the "free acid" form of the AHA molecule must be greater than 4% before epidermal "cell renewal" is substantially stimulated. The AHA concentration and the product pH determines free acid. Standard pH of the skin tissue is 4.5 to 5.5. Free acid is harmful if delivered below 2.5% and not as effective if delivered above 4%. It is important to understand when more than 8% Glycolic Acid is used in a formulation, irritation may occur. In professional mini-peel services, it is essential to use a "buffered" peel for safety and efficacy.